PFAS/PFCs: avoiding the forever chemicals in waterproof clothing

PFAS, also known as PFCs, are a category of synthetic chemical that are used to make man-made products waterproof. They're used in outdoor clothing for waterproofing –  a job they do very well. But their use has a significant environmental impact. 

PFAS – which stands for per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances – were first developed in the 1930s and started to be used widely in clothing in the 1960s. At the time, they were a seemingly miraculous invention – the only way, it was thought, to create a truly waterproof, durable and long-lasting layer that prevents moisture from entering a manufactured product. And it's not just clothing – PFAS can be found in anything from non-stick cookware to takeaway boxes, carpets and toiletries. 

By adding PFAS to a fabric means the water beads on the surface and rolls off, rather than being absorbed. 

But the long-lasting quality offers a longer lifetime guarantee than initially realised. Known as 'forever chemicals', these synthetics can take 1,000 years to degenerate. Meanwhile, they make their way into waterways and the natural environment – including our own bodies and those of other living organisms. 

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What's the problem with PFAS/PFCs?

As well as outdoor clothing, per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances (PFAS) are found in all sorts of common household items, including food packaging (things like bakery bags and compostable takeaway boxes), bike oil, toiletries and upholstered furniture (where they offer stain resistance). They are also found in firefighting foam.

Non-stick pans are traditionally coated with chemicals from the PFAS family, or PFAS are used in their manufacture. A 2019 film, Dark Waters, starring Mark Ruffalo, brought global attention to the true story of a lawyer who took on DuPont, the maker of Teflon, for polluting water in a small town in West Virginia with perfluorooctanoic acid, or PFOA.

PFOA, a long-chain PFAS (C8), has been linked to a wide range of serious human health issues, such as liver damage, certain cancers and reproductive problems, and is now banned around the world; likewise PFOS, another similar long-chain PFAS.

PFAS comprise thousands of chemicals, some of which, like polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE), are thought to be more stable than others. But little is known about the long-term effects on the environment. And 'long-term' could be very long – known as forever chemicals, they could take more than 1,000 years to degrade.

When PFOA and PFOS were banned, they were replaced with different PFCs, perfluorinated compounds also known as short-chain PFAS (C6), in the belief that these were less harmful to human health and the environment. However, that is no longer believed to be the case.

Polluted waterways and soil

The Forever Pollution Project – a recent mapping project and investigation, run between 18 European newsrooms including The Guardian, has found PFAS at high levels across sites around the UK and Europe. 

At one site in Belgium, levels were so high that people living within a 10-mile radius have been told not to consume eggs laid by backyard chickens, or grow their own vegetables.

The highest levels in the UK were found near a chemical plant by the River Wyre, near Blackpool. In September 2024, residents living near the AGC Chemicals plant in Thornton Cleveleys were told were told to wash and peel vegetables grown in their gardens before eating them.

PFAS are found in water, soil and sediments, so they then make their way into crops and animals. Some PFAS are bio-accumulative, which means they build up in the body over time and accumulate more as you go up the food chain.

The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is currently proposing to restrict the use of all PFAS in the EU. However, there are no similar plans in the UK at the moment.

For more information on how you buying decisions can be better for our waterways, read our guide on how to buy water friendly products

Outdoor clothing retailers and PFC/PFAS policies

As things stand, some brands have taken the decision to make their products without PFCs or have plans to phase them out. 

Which? readers have rated some leading waterproof jacket brands, including Paramo, a brand that has always been PFC-free. 

Find out what they thought in our guide to the best waterproof jackets. 

Other brands that are PFC-free include Alpkit, Finisterre, Fjällräven and Lowe-Alpine. 

Some outdoor clothing brands are members of the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) Roadmap to Zero Programme, which aims to eliminate harmful chemicals used in the fashion industry. 

Its newest restricted chemical guidelines bans all PFCs from clothing and footwear. Brands that have committed to the Roadmap to Zero have phased out or will be working to phase out PFAS/PFCs and are annually assessed on their performance.

Brands can also sign up to have their products approved by Bluesign, another sustainability programme that has a restricted chemicals list. From July 2024, fabrics treated with PFAS are no longer able to be Bluesign-certified.

One thing to note is that PTFE is often used in the membranes of technical outdoor gear, including Gore-tex. PTFE itself is thought to be more stable and safer than other PFAS, but the manufacturing process can still cause the release of harmful PFCs to the environment. Some brands say their products have a PFC-free durable water-repellent layer (DWR), but make no mention of the membrane. 

They may also refer to a 'PFCec-free DWR', which translates to a durable water repellent that's free of PFCs of environmental concern. 

Gore-Tex has come up with a PFC-free alternative for its membranes called expanded polyethylene (ePE), which is currently being rolled out by brands such as Adidas Terrex, Arc'teryx and Patagonia. This rollout will expand over time and Gore-Tex says further laminate options will be available soon. 

Is PFC-free waterproof clothing as good?

Brands seem to be in agreement that it is possible to get good waterproof/water-repellent performance using a non-PFC-based durable water repellent. 

It doesn't repel oil and dirt as well, so you may need to wash your outdoor clothing and apply a waterproofing treatment more frequently than if it contained PFC. 

However, with a little care, you should be able to have a waterproof garment that keeps you just as dry and has less impact on the environment.

If you're interested in finding PFAS-free options for more products such as cookware, cosmetics and furniture, visit PFAS-free.org.uk

For more sustainability advice from Which?, head to our guide to shopping sustainably or sign up to get our monthly sustainability newsletter sent straight to your inbox.