How to paint a room

Painting a room might seem straightforward, but it’s essential to use the right equipment and techniques for a clean, even finish.

For one, you’ll need to think about how to minimise mess – applying masking tape around sockets, switches and skirting boards can help, while laying down dust sheets and keeping a damp cloth nearby for quick clean-ups will make the job easier. When applying paint, rushing or using uneven pressure can lead to streaks and patchy coverage.

In this guide, we run you through the key steps to help you paint a room like a pro, with tips from painting and decorating experts Ben Thwaite and Adam Williams, who are both Which? Trusted Traders.

For more advice on renovating and redecorating, visit our home improvements hub

Step-by-step: painting a room

1. Prepare the room (and your paint)

First, clear and cover the area to avoid damage from drips and splashes. Remove as much furniture and as many ornaments as possible, then cover the floor and anything you can’t move with dust sheets or protective plastic. Old bed sheets are a popular option, but be aware that paint can soak through. You should be able to find large dust sheets online and in-store for under £10. 

If you’re planning to protect areas you don’t want painted with masking tape, choose the best-quality tape you can afford – but note that it can still allow some paint to seep underneath. A single roll of painter’s tape typically costs around £5 and can be used to protect edges such as skirting boards, window frames and glass. An alternative is a paint shield, which costs about £5 and can be reused. Hold it in place with one hand to protect the surface while you paint with the other.

Make sure you stir your paint before applying it. This helps ensure a consistent colour and breaks up any lumps that could leave bumps in the finish.

2. Prepare the surface

The surfaces you’re painting should be clean, dust-free and completely dry before you start.

Stains such as grease or water marks can show through new paint and cause discolouration, so treat them with a shellac-based stain blocker product to seal them in, before you start painting.  

For hairline cracks in ceilings or walls, use a knife or old screwdriver to open up the crack slightly before filling it – this gives the filler more space to grip and reduces the risk of it shrinking or falling out as it dries. For further advice, see how to fix cracks in plaster.

If you need to deal with a hairline crack in a corner or around woodwork, use a cartridge gun to apply decorative caulk (not silicone, as it can’t usually be painted over). Squeeze it into the gap and carefully smooth it with a wet finger or sponge. Allow it to dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions, and remember that you can overpaint most varieties within an hour.

3. Turn off the electrics

You need to be safe before you start painting the room, so consider switching off the mains power if you're tackling areas near electrical fittings or plug sockets. You can also cover fittings with plastic or tape to protect them from splashes.

Depending on the space you're painting, you might benefit from using a battery-operated lamp so you can paint around electrical fittings but still have a light source to help you.

4. Cut in like a pro

Before you start painting larger areas, you need to 'cut in' – this involves painting edges and areas that are too tight for a roller, such as where walls meet the ceiling, in corners, and around windows and doors.

'It's good to cut in before you roll larger areas as you can feather the paint (blend the edges),' says Ben Thwaite of Ben Thwaite High Class Decorator, a Which? Trusted Trader. 'If you roll first, feathering is harder.'

Adam Williams of Combined Building Services, also a Which? Trusted Trader, agrees: 'Always cut in first and then roll over the area you've cut in by 10-20mm. This eliminates the amount of brush marks left visible.'

Avoid overloading your brush, as this can cause drips. Hold it at a slight angle and use steady, controlled strokes for a cleaner edge. Keeping a damp cloth nearby will help you deal with any stray paint marks as you go.

Try to cut in and roll each section while the paint is still wet, as this helps achieve a more even finish. You can quickly work around ceiling edges using a 2-inch brush or a mini roller, and a small step or ‘hop up’ will help you reach comfortably. You might also want to use masking tape while cutting in to form neat edges, but this comes down to personal preference.

5. Roll the walls

Compared to using a brush, working with a roller will save you lots of time if your technique is sound. We suggest using a roller with a telescopic handle to reach higher areas without a ladder.

'Use a short pile roller and don't put too much paint on,' says Ben.

But don't allow the roller to become low on paint, either. 'The general rule is to paint 1 square metre and then re-load the roller. But remember to consider how porous the surface is,' adds Adam.

When using a roller to paint your room, remember the following:

• Apply the first coat in one direction (for example, horizontally), then the second coat in the opposite direction – changing the direction helps achieve full coverage in different lighting conditions.
• Ensure you keep a wet paint edge while you are working – if you don't, you'll get a 'shut', which is a line created where you overlap and have let the leading edge dry. This means that once you start, you cannot stop until the wall or ceiling is completed.
• If you notice the ceiling starting to peel, stop painting – continuing to use your roller will cause more damage and deposit the peeled paint onto other areas. You will need to paint the ceiling with specialist anti-peel paint before reapplying the top coat.
• Be careful not to get ceiling paint on the walls – the white ceiling paint may ‘flash’  through the new wall colours.

Make sure you leave four hours between coats to prevent peeling, and allow the paint to dry before removing any masking tape from around fittings.

Are cheap rollers any good?

Investing in an affordable roller will help you keep costs down as you tackle your DIY project, but be aware of the potential downsides. Cheap rollers often hold less paint and can give a less even finish.

'Generally speaking, cheap rollers aren’t great, as they tend to shed fibres much faster than higher-quality rollers,' says Adam.

If you’re shopping online, check customer reviews and look for rollers that are lint-free or low-shedding before buying.

6. Leave to dry

With your walls freshly painted, allow the first coat to dry fully before applying a second.

The time you need to wait will depend on the type of paint you’re using and the conditions in the room. ‘Oil-based paint typically dries overnight, while water-based paint can often be recoated within a few hours,’ says Ben.

Drying times can also be affected by temperature and ventilation, so check the guidance on the tin and avoid rushing this stage – applying a second coat too soon can lead to peeling or an uneven finish.

Best washable paint for walls: our experts have tested a selection of paints from Dulux, Farrow & Ball, Lick and other big-name brands

What's the correct order to paint a room?

With any decorating project, it’s generally best to start at the top of the room and work your way down.

Following a set order helps you avoid getting paint on areas you’ve already finished. For example, if you paint the ceiling last, you could end up with splatters on freshly painted walls.

We suggest the following order:

1. Start with the ceiling.
2. Move to the walls.
3. Deal with the woodwork.
4. Finish with areas near the floor.

Working in this order will help you achieve a neater, more professional-looking finish and reduce the risk of overlapping or rework.

How to paint a ceiling

Start by scraping away any flaking paint or loose material, then lightly sand the surface to create a smooth, even base for the new coat. Lightly sand the area afterwards to improve adhesion and remove any remaining rough patches.

Adam suggests using a pole sander – a sanding head attached to a long, extendable pole – to get rid of any tiny bumps on the surface (a process known as de-nibbing). He also advises applying 'a minimum of two coats of paint'.

We suggest covering any light fittings in the ceiling with low-tack (gentle adhesive) masking tape to keep them free from paint. If you’re planning to paint the walls next, you might want to cover the wall fittings as well.

You should use ceiling-specific paint (check the side of the tin), as it's often thicker than wall paint and designed to reduce light reflection. Plus, it typically has a matt finish that helps to hide imperfections.

Top tips for painting a ceiling

• Work with your roller slightly in front of you rather than directly overhead for better control and less strain.
• Avoid overloading your roller, as ceilings are more prone to splatter. Use a steady, controlled motion.
• Paint in small sections and slightly overlap each pass to avoid lines or patchy coverage.
• Use good lighting and check from different angles to spot missed areas while the paint is still wet.

How to paint skirting boards or doorframes

Before you start, make sure your floors are properly protected – use dust sheets and secure them with masking tape to prevent movement and stop paint from reaching the floor.

• Skirting boards – freshening up your skirting boards is best done with a small or angled brush for better control and precision. Use masking tape to protect the wall above, and consider sanding down any bumps or imperfections before painting. Apply paint in smooth, even strokes, following the length of the board.
• Doorframes – as with skirting boards, lightly sand the surface first to remove imperfections and help the paint adhere. When painting a doorframe, it’s often best to start at the top and work down to control drips and achieve a more even finish.

You should also consider the following when working with wood:

Woodwork with light blemishes

Prep the surface by sanding it down, then clean. Apply the undercoat, then the topcoat or use an all-in-one paint that combines both layers.

Woodwork with old or damaged paintwork

If the paintwork is in poor condition, you might need to strip it back to bare wood using a heat gun (usually around £15) – just be careful not to burn the wood. However, if you’re dealing with lead paint, which is sometimes found in older homes, don’t use a heat gun and instead seek advice from a professional. For paint with light blemishes, sanding is sufficient. Smooth out imperfections and give the surface a key – an adhesive layer that helps the new paint adhere.

Once you’ve sanded, clean the surface thoroughly with a damp cloth or industrial wipe to remove any grease and grime. You can also use sugar soap, but don’t soak the woodwork. Be mindful of the paint you choose, too – cheap paints might look fine at first, but lighter colours, such as white, can yellow prematurely.

After the surface is dry, apply a thin coat of undercoat, working with the grain. Allow it to dry fully before moving on. Finally, finish with a coat of gloss, satin, or eggshell paint, following the instructions for bare wood.

Preparing and painting bare wood

Over time, wood sap can leak out and stain or discolour paintwork if not properly treated. Start by applying two or three light coats of knotting solution, allowing around 30 minutes between each coat.

Fill any holes, cracks or imperfections with wood filler. Apply sparingly, as using too much will mean extra sanding later. If a gap has formed between the woodwork and the wall, fill and seal it with decorators’ caulk applied using a cartridge gun.

Next, apply a coat of wood primer to create a surface for the paint to adhere to. Let it dry, then apply undercoat in thin, even layers to avoid drips, working with the grain for a smooth finish. On bare wood, one coat of primer and one to two coats of undercoat is typically recommended, but check the product guidance.

Once the undercoat is dry, apply your topcoat – usually one or two coats are needed for a durable, even finish.

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How long does it take to paint a room?

The time it takes to paint a room depends on the size of the space, the condition of the surfaces and the equipment used. You’ll also need to factor in preparation time and drying time between coats.

As a rough guide, painting an average-sized room (including prep and two coats) can take a full day or a weekend, depending on drying times and the amount of prep needed.

If you want to work efficiently, make sure you’re using good-quality equipment – you don’t want to waste time replacing torn dust sheets or dealing with rollers that shed fibres and affect the finish. You can also save time on the day by clearing the room and applying masking tape in advance.

'Be methodical and plan your day to achieve the maximum amount of application time,' says Adam.

Ben advises that you focus on achieving a good finish rather than working too quickly, as rushing can lead to mistakes and extra work later.

How much does it cost to paint a room?

When shopping for paint, check the side of the tin or the brand's website for details on coverage.

For example, a 2.5L tin of Johnstone’s emulsion paint may cover up to around 12 square metres per litre, depending on the surface and how porous it is. A single tin might be sufficient for touching up certain areas, but most rooms will require more than one tin, especially if you’re applying two coats.

Here's an overview of several 2.5L paints from big-name brands and their claimed coverage:

• Fortress 2.5L (£17.99) – 14 square metres per litre
• Macpherson 2.5L (£19.54) – 16 square metres per litre
• Leyland Trade 2.5L (£21.99) – 20 square metres per litre
• LickPro 2.5L (£23.99) – 14 square metres per litre
• Dulux Trade 2.5L (£41.99) – 17 square metres per litre

You’ll also need to factor in the cost of brushes and rollers if you don’t already have them. Expect to spend around £15–£25 for a roller and extension pole, and £5–£10 for a paint tray.

Besides paint, brushes and rollers, you might also need other essentials, including a paint scuttle, extension pole (if not included with your roller), dust sheets, filler, brush cleaner and sandpaper.

How much does it cost to hire a painter and decorator?

Several factors can affect how much you’ll be charged, including where you live, the age and condition of your home and how long the job takes.

Costs can also vary depending on who you hire. For example, a handyman might offer a lower price, but they may not have the same level of experience or deliver as high a finish as a professional painter and decorator.

A qualified painter and decorator will usually charge more, but this often reflects their expertise, preparation work and the quality of the final result.

Make sure you ask traders to break down the quotes they provide, so you know what you’re being charged for. It’s also a good idea to get more than one quote so you have a better idea of the going rate for your particular requirements.

Find out more in our guide to how much painters and decorators cost. To find a reliable professional near you, search for a Which? Trusted Trader using the tool below:

How to clean paint brushes and rollers

It’s not ideal to leave paint on your brushes or roller overnight, but if you need to, there are ways to keep them from drying out.

We suggest wrapping up your tools in a plastic wrap or bag if you plan to use the same brush or roller the next day. A brush or roller cover will also do the job. You can even store them in the fridge (while they still have paint on them) to extend their usability.

But for the best results, it’s recommended to clean your brushes and rollers after each use. Leftover paint can dry and ruin your tools, making them harder to clean and affecting the quality of your next coat of paint.

Ben notes that hot water can make the paint set on the brush, so it's best to wash them in cold water.